Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Acne Paper & Rouge Baiser

Great cover photo of Missy Rayder on Acne Paper Summer 2009 magazine in the same pose as a 1949 Rouge Baiser illustration by Rene Gruau.

Link to Acne Paper:


Thursday, April 16, 2009

The World of Balenciaga March 23 - June 30, 1973

Just arrived in is a rare 1973 exhibition book, 'The World of Balenciaga'. The exhibition was curated by former Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. An Exhibition Presented by The Metropolitan Museum of Art Under the Auspices of The Government of Spain. March 23 - June 30, 1973.

Balenciaga was born in Guetaria, Spain, and many of his couture designs were inspired by a distinctly Spanish style, from his bullfighter "bolero" jackets to his use of madros, an ornamental trim of tassels, to his Goyaesque shapes and colors. The master couturier was responsible for the creation of the sack dress, the cocoon coat and the balloon skirt.

The book is available here:

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Hommage A Elsa Schiaparelli 20 juin-30 aout 1984

Just in is a super rare French exhibition catalogue, "Hommage A Elsa Schiaparelli 20 juin-30 aout 1984." The catalogue was published in 1984 by the Musee de la Mode et du Costume.

Cover illustration by Christian Berard. Drawings by Cocteau, Rene Bouet-Willaumez; photographs by Horst, Beaton, Francois Kollar, Henry Clarke, and more.
This rare exhibition catalogue is available at Paper Pursuits:

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Valentino: The Last Emperor

Produced and directed by Matt Tyrnauer, Special Correspondent for Vanity Fair magazine, Valentino: The Last Emperor provides a first-time glimpse into Valentino’s world of bygone glamour. Filmed from June 2005 to July 2007, the crew shot over 250 hours of footage with exclusive, unprecedented access to Valentino and his entourage. The resulting non-fiction film is a portrait of an extraordinary partnership, the longest running in fashion, and a dramatic story about a master confronting the final act of his celebrated career.

Playing at select theatres. http://www.valentinomovie.com/

Accompanying publications:
This publication renders homage to Valentino s illustrious career via a copious selection of images from his archives, including drawings, magazine shoots, advertisements, portraits of Valentino, and documentary photographs; presented chronologically, the visual material is accompanied by a vast array of newspaper and magazine articles about Valentino throughout the years. Text also includes Vanity Fair writer Matt Tyrnauer s interviews with twenty of Valentino s closest collaborators and friends as well as an appreciation of Valentino by International Herald Tribune s fashion writer Suzy Menkes. All of these elements add up to an in-depth look at the man, his lifestyle, and his genius a book more comprehensive and stunning than one could hardly dare to dream of.

This unlimited popular edition is for readers on a budget or who were unable to get their hands on the original limited Collector's and Art Edition.

Collector’s Edition(No. 101–2,100). Limited to 2,000 numbered copies, each numbered and signed by Valentino Garavani. Finished in setalux book cloth with six-color silkscreen printing. Comes in a clamshell box finished in silk cloth, especially tinted in Valentino red.

The Art Edition is limited to 100 individually numbered copies, each signed by Valentino. Each book is accompanied by four prints of original drawings from the 1950s and 1960s, all signed by Valentino and authenticated with a stamp on the back. It is finished in an elegant book cloth with six-color silk-screen printing and comes in a clamshell box finished in silk cloth. Many famous friends of Valentino and celebrated fashion experts contributed to this book with very personal texts: Graydon Carter from Vanity Fair; Vicomtesse Jacqueline de Ribes, French Socialite; Farah Diba, widow of the late Shah of Iran; Rupert Everett, English actor; John Fairchild from Women's Wear Daily; Patrick McCarthy from Women's Wear Daily and W; Ingrid Sischy from Interview; Franca Sozzani from Vogue Italia; Anna Wintour from Vogue USA.

1966 Lanvin Mod Evening Dress

From Femme Chic Spring/Summer 1966, the Lanvin couture collection contained this color blocked evening dress and unusual headpiece:


40 Years Ago...Chanel Tweed Suit

From French magazine, L'art et la Mode September 1969 issue, here is the Chanel tweed look 40 years ago...


Monday, April 6, 2009

Leslie Caron's Vogue Dior Dress & Boa

This 1968 dress with boa was owned & worn by Leslie Caron and photographed for a British Vogue fashion shoot. One of the original images from the shoot is shown below.

The dress is available at Eternity Couture :

More dresses from other couturiers:

Friday, April 3, 2009

Elsa Schiaparelli: Empress of Fashion by Palmer White

Just in, is an out of print 1986 Elsa Schiaparelli book published by Rizzoli. The book is by Palmer White. Palmer White is a long-standing friend of Elsa Schiaparelli's only daughter, Gogo, la Marquise Cacciapuoti and so has had access to all the private family material. Foreward by Yves Saint Laurent.

The book is available at Paper Pursuits:

Starting with knitwear, Schiaparelli's designs were heavily influenced by Surrealists like her collaborators Salvador Dalí and Alberto Giacometti. Below are some of her well known work.

Artist collaborations
Schiaparelli's relationship with the Dada and Surrealist movements continued in collaboration with Salvador Dalí, Leonor Fini, Jean Cocteau, and Alberto Giacometti. Chanel referred to her as 'that Italian artist who makes clothes'. Her collaborations with various artists contributed to the vast range and variety of her work.

In 1937 Schiaparelli collaborated with the artist Jean Cocteau to design a jacket and an evening coat for that year's Autumn collection.. The jacket was embroidered with a female figure with one hand caressing the waist of the wearer, and long blonde hair cascading down one sleeve. The coat featured two profiles facing each other, creating the optical illusion of a vase of roses. The embroidering of both garments was executed by the couture embroidery house of Lesage.

The designs Schiaparelli produced in collaboration with Dali are among her best known. While Schiaparelli did not name her designs, the four iconic Dali collaborations are popularly known as follows:

Lobster Dress
The 1937 Lobster Dress was a simple white silk evening dress with a crimson waistband featuring a large lobster painted (by Dali) onto the skirt. From 1934, Dali had started incorporating lobsters into his work, including New York Dream-Man Finds Lobster in Place of Phone shown in the magazine American Weekly in 1935, and the mixed-media Lobster Telephone (1936). His design for Schiaparelli was interpreted into a fabric print by the leading silk designer Sache. It was famously worn by Wallis Simpson in a series of photographs by Cecil Beaton taken at the Château de Candé shortly before her marriage to Edward VIII. The illustration here, from Vogue July 1937, shows the ready-to-wear version: a crisp white linen beach dress with a big hat ‘that is no more than a lobster-basket.’

Tears Dress
The Tears Dress was part of the February 1938 Circus Collection. It was a slender white evening gown printed with a Dali design of trompe l'oeil rips and tears, worn with a thigh-length veil with "real" tears, carefully cut out and lined in pink and magenta. Figures in ripped, skin-tight clothing suggesting flayed flesh appeared in some of Dali's paintings, including one owned by Schiaparelli.

Skeleton Dress
Dali also helped Schiaparelli design the Skeleton Dress for the Circus Collection.It was a stark black crepe dress which used trapunto quilting to create padded ribs, spine, and leg bones.

Shoe Hat
Schiaparelli's Fall-Winter 1937-38 collection featured a hat shaped like a woman's high heeled shoe, with the heel standing straight up and the toe tilted over the wearer's forehead.This was worn by Gala Dali, Schiaparelli herself, and by the Franco-American editor of the French Harper's Bazaar, heiress Daisy Fellowes, who was one of Schiaparelli's best clients.