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Monday, April 30, 2007

Harry Winston







Harry Winston (March 1, 1896 – December 8, 1978) was an American jeweller. He donated the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institution in 1958 after owning it for a decade. He once sent a 726 carat (145 g) rough diamond, "The Jonker", through the US Postal Service, foregoing other more conventional means of secure transfer.

Harry Winston's jewelry empire began with his acquisition of Arabella Huntington's famous jewelry collection.. The wife of railroad magnate Henry Huntington, Arabella amassed one of the world's most prestigious collections of jewelry, largely from Parisian jewelers such as Cartier.

When Harry Winston purchased the collection after her death, the designs of the collection were quite old fashioned. Harry Winston redesigned the jewelry into more contemporary styles and showcased his unique skill at jewelry crafting. According to the Huntington museum: "He frequently boasted that Arabella’s famous necklace of pearls now adorned the necks of at least two­ dozen women around the world."

One famous quote of his is, "People will stare. Make it worth their while."

http://www.harrywinston.com/

More beautiful vintage Harry Winston ads can be viewed here:
http://paperpursuits.com/advault/adcompanies.cfm?Company=Harry%20Winston

1970

1948

1976

Wilhelmina Cooper


Wilhelmina (1940–March 1, 1980) was a supermodel who began with Ford Models and, at the peak of her success, founded her own agency, Wilhelmina Models, in New York City in 1967.

Born Wilhelmina Behmenburg in The Netherlands, she was known professionally as simply "Wilhelmina" or "Willy" to intimates. She moved with her family to Chicago, Illinois, USA, in 1954. She married Bruce Cooper, former executive producer of the Johnny Carson The Tonight Show in 1965.

Eileen Ford was hurt and angry at first when she learned that one of "her own" that she had built and groomed was to become the competition. Internationally known at the time, known for working hard, she knew everyone in the fashion industry. She called top photographers that she had worked with extensively, to share her excitement over her new venture. To her credit, she was able to translate her knowledge of the business, and give new talent a look based on her own personal philosophy of beauty, glamour and elegance. Wilhelmina Models became the other leading model agency with Fords years before Elite and other agencies began.

Cooper was portrayed by Faye Dunaway in the 1998 movie Gia which tells the story of Gia Marie Carangi, a supermodel, who was discoved by Wilhelmina Cooper and later died of AIDS.

She continued to guide the agency into the late 1970s until her premature death from lung cancer at the age of 40 in Greenwich Hospital, Greenwich, Connecticut.

She was a resident of New York City and Cos Cob, Connecticut.

Benedetta Barzini

Benedetta Barzini is an Italian actress and model, daughter of Italian journalist and author Luigi Barzini, Jr. and stepsister of Giangiacomo Feltrinelli, who established a successful fashion career in New York City. In December 1966 she was named one of the "100 Great Beauties of the World" by Harper's Bazaar. That same year Barzini became engaged in a romance with poet Gerard Malanga, a close friend and assistant to Andy Warhol.





Pablo of Elizabeth Arden












I was pleased to find an article on a well-known make-up back in the 60s, Pablo of Elizabeth Arden!


From Time Magazine
Friday, Jun. 10, 1966
Find this article at:
http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,942028,00.html




A Touch of Sable

He paints, is a huge success with the ladies, is vastly entertaining. He is also 26, handsome, slender, Italian, and of noble birth. A phenomenon of the art world? Not at all. He is Manhattan's newest status symbol: Pablo of Elizabeth Arden.

Known on the Continent as a visa-giste, or makeup man, Pablo does for faces what Kenneth does for hair, and he is increasingly becoming a necessary part of the well-dressed sophisticate's beauty routine. "I've never seen an ugly woman," says Pablo. Certainly not after he is through with her. Pablo takes run-of-the-mill eyes and transforms them into haunting pools of promise fringed by luxuriant thickets. His tools may be available to everyone, but today's makeup look is so complex that it requires the skill and patience of a professional to apply.

Hollywood has known this for years. There George Masters, 27, who transformed Lynda Bird Johnson for April's Oscar ceremonies, currently works over the likes of Doris Day and Rita Hayworth at $100 a sitting. Former MGM and Paramount Makeup Director Eddie Senz, 57, long ago brought his talents to Manhattan, where he caters to Broadway actors and members of the Great Society (Lady Bird attended the Inauguration with makeup by Senz). But it took an Italian who paints crazy eyes for the art to really catch on.



Hateful Eyebrows. The son of Count Zappi-Manzoni, Pablo arrived self-taught from Arden's Rome salon two years ago with a bagful of tricks (beige foundation, pink and white eyeshadow). He took the fashion world by storm with a series of eye fantasies for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar in which he used peacock feathers, sequins, lace, flower petals, even diamonds, all painstakingly pasted onto eyelids in fanciful designs. Some eyes took as long as five hours to do, but they made the magazine covers, earned Pablo special beauty awards and the run of Elizabeth Arden's Fifth Avenue salon. There a covey of beauties (Virna Lisi, Anne McDonnell Ford and Stephanie Javits) flock for his touch at $20 a half-hour session.

Pablo is not a snob, but his views are crisply delivered. "I did jeweled eyes for the magazines, and now women call and say they want them," he moans. "It is not to be believed." Pablo has strong dislikes: "Pink foundation is awful, green eyeshadow is vulgar, eyebrows are hateful, dark lipstick is obsolete." What he favors, and has made fashionable, is makeup that shows yet seems effortless: healthy, glowing skin, light lipstick, and fascinating, fluttering eyes—"the only part really worth making up."

Interesting Defect. Pablo's art requires the touch of a miniaturist, the steadiness of a demolition expert. He has both, plus an assorted palette of six watercolor shades and seven sable brushes of various sizes and shapes—shaving-brush thick for blush powder, pencil-thin for under-eyeliner. Eyes are made up as much as possible: double, even triple rows of false eyelashes ("Doesn't everybody own at least three pairs?"), and the rest a subtle blending of watercolor tones: black eyeliner, then white, light brown, dark brown (in the crease of the eyelid), light brown again, ending with gold or white lightener under the brow.
Makeup must never become a mask, Pablo insists. "Even a so-called defect can be interesting," he says. He had Italian Beauty Donna Livia Aldobrandini's Roman nose photographed in profile for Town & Country. "The more crooked the better," he stated firmly. "Don't try to hide what you think is bad; just wear it proudly."

Vogue December 1964 & Vogue December 1 1965
Vogue October 1 1965